RAMBLES ON OVERLAND TRAILS 





IMMENSE SAND-CUT IN HILL 



RAMBLES 

ON OVERLAND 

TRAILS 



BY 
THOMAS J. H. O'SHAUGHNESSY 




CHICAGO 
PRIVATELY PRINTED 

1915 



.0 8d 



Copyright, 1915 

BY 

THOMAS J. H. O'SHAUGHNESSY 



R. R. DONNELLEY & SONS COMPANY 
CHICAGO 



^/ 



QEC 16 1915 

CI.A418041 
/ 



^0 



) 

I 

TO 



MR. AND MRS. CALKINS 

WHO MADE THE TRIP POSSIBLE 

AND 

MISS ALMA NEELY, 

ALL OF WHOM 

WERE DELIGHTFUL COMPANIONS 

ON THE TRIP 



CONTENTS 

PAGE 

Part One. OVER THE SANTA FE TRAIL AND SOUTH- 
^VEST. OKLAHOMA, KANSAS, COLORADO, NEW 
MEXICO, ARIZONA AND CALIFORNIA ... 13 

Part Two. CALIFORNIA 57 

Part Three. EAST ON THE LINCOLN HIGHWAY. CALI- 
FORNIA, NEVADA, UTAH AND WYOMING ... 89 

Part Four. HOMEWARD BOUND. COLORADO, KANSAS 
AND OKLAHOMA 117 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 

PAGE 

IMMENSE SAND-CUT IN HILL Frontispiece 

SANTO DOMINGO PUEBLO 15 

SANTO DOMINGO PUEBLO 19 

CANON DIABLO 23 

VANISHING TYPES OF THE WEST 27 

HOPI HOUSE AT GRAND CANYON 31 

TENTING 35 

GOLD ROAD, ARIZONA 39 

TOPOE BRIDGE OVER THE COLORADO RIVER ... 43 

BY THE SIGN OF THE CACTUS 47 

CORNER OF SAN JUAN CAPISTRANO MISSION .51 

SUNSET ON THE PACIFIC 59 

SEAL ROCKS, CATALINA ISLAND 63 

PORTION OF THE OWEN'S ACQUEDUCT 67 

A MOUNTAIN STREAM, SIERRA NEVADA 71 

BRIDAL VEIL FALLS, YOSEMITE 75 

GIANT CACTUS AT THE EXPOSITION 79 

ON THE SALT FLATS, NEVADA 83 

TRANSPORT OF THE DESERT 91 

OLD CHINATOWN, EUREKA 95 

OUR SLEEPING QUARTERS ONE NIGHT, WYOMING . 99 
BALANCED ROCK, GARDEN OF THE GODS .... 103 

GARDEN OF THE GODS, COLORADO 107 

OIL DERRICK, NORTHERN OKLAHOMA Ill 

PASTORAL SCENERY, PONCA CITY, OKLAHOMA . .119 



PART ONE 

OVER THE SANTA FE TRAIL 
AND SOUTHWEST 



Oklalioma 

Kansas 

Colorado 

New Mexico 

Arizona 

California 



RAMBLES ON OVERLAND 
TRAILS 

PART ONE 

Over the Santa Fe Trail and Southwest — Oklahoma, 

KansaSy Colorado, New Mexico, Arizona 

and California 

THIS is not a history of places visited, neither 
is it a catalogue nor guidebook, but just a 
little reminder, or memento, written at the 
request of and for a few friends, of a wonderful 
trip taken this summer during the months of 
May, June, and July. 

The equipment carried with us consisted of a 
camping outfit, of which we made much use, which 
when packed in the car occupied much less room 
than that of any other car we met similarly equipped, 
and they were many indeed. 

This was our first tour of any considerable dis- 
tance worth mentioning, and consequently I am 
not in a position to compare travel this year as 
with that of former years, but I feel safe in saying 
that the tourist traffic this year has been the largest 

[13 1 



RAMBLES ON OVERLAND TRAILS 

on record, and will serve as a stimulus to overland 
travel in future years. I shall make no attempt 
to deal in figures or statistics, but I must say that 
on our outward trip we met fully as many cars go- 
ing east as on our return we met going west. Dur- 
ing the entire trip we met from six to twenty cars 
daily, of all makes and models, the large majority 
of which were the universal Ford, loaded in all 
shapes and every possible way that one could 
imagine. 

Touring cars were seen from almost all states in 
the Union ; I say almost for there were a few states 
not represented, or perhaps we just missed them. 

Great interest has been taken by us in hearing 
and reading the many tales of fellow-tourists, some 
really interesting, while others were recitals of 
what had been told elsewhere, which in the transfer 
had lost nothing of coloring. How people will 
try to pass such tales is a wonder in itself. For 
instance, the richest one we heard was of a party 
who, coming to a stream which was deeper and more 
difficult of fording than anticipated, backed the 
car far enough to permit of speeding up to 
forty miles, and hit a large rock from which they 
bounced clear across on the other side all safe and 
smiling. This, and others one hears along the way 

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RAMBLES ON OVERLAND TRAILS 

are beauties of vivid imaginations. Stories of 
bireakdowns and being stuck, one is more inclined 
to credit and take counsel accordingly. 

Durng the nine weeks of our trip we were stuck 
just once, and that on the four-mile salt flat in the 
Carson sink, between Fallon and Austin, Nevada, 
where is a bad spot for persons inexperienced, and 
seventy-five per cent of the tourists going through 
are people to whom all this is new. 

There is a well-beaten track across the flat, but 
owing to a peculiar formation in the soil, the trail 
is not safe to leave, and if left, the wheels sink in and 
trouble is inevitable. Even in walking a person's 
shoes will sink three and four inches at each step. 
Of course there is a graded road across in the center, 
but that is almost impossible on account of the 
high centers. 

Near Fallon is encountered a very bad piece of 
road, due to irrigation work in the vicinity, and a 
section that needs attention very much, more so 
than any other part of the Lincoln Highway from 
San Francisco to Salt Lake. 

Apart from the five hours spent on the salt- 
flats, the rest of the journey was unmarred, and 
even those five hours were well spent, for we learned 
much in regard to the nature of the soil, that we 

[17] 



RAMBLES ON OVERLAND TRAILS 

would not have known otherwise. So much for 
trouble. 

On the afternoon of May 13th, we left Oklahoma, 
making but a short run that day owing to a little 
engine trouble, which was soon adjusted, and in 
justice to the man who did the work, must say, 
that traveling as we did, day after day, the engine 
was in perfect condition on the completion of the 
trip and heated less on the mountains than we had 
expected, and some very stiff grades were crossed 
too. 

Speaking of mountains reminds me that the 
famed Raton Pass and La Bajada hill, and the grades 
of Arizona and New Mexico, are as child's play 
in comparison with the Sierra Nevadas of Cali- 
fornia, particularly in and out of Yosemite Valley. 
Here one may enjoy mountain climbing to their 
heart's content yet, though the grades are stiff, 
the roads are very good and safe, which is more 
than can be said of other mountain roads, though 
the best of such are unsafe when wet. The best 
mountain road we traveled was at Gold Road, 
Arizona, which is a mining camp. This road is 
built to last, and a pleasure to ride on, though few 
tourists go to Needles that way. 

But, to return. It is almost impossible to write 
[18 1 




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RAMBLES ON OVERLAND TRAILS 

without diverging at times, for which one may be 
forgiven. 

Starting from Oklahoma, and through Kansas 
we followed the Santa Fe trail, which in point of 
scenery is not so very interesting, but historically 
is very important. How grand and glorious it 
seemed to be, out in the open, away from the haunt- 
ing cares of business routine, and with the prospect 
of being in the open for many days to come ! With 
what pleasure and enthusiasm we looked forward 
to the days and the nights to follow, and the ever- 
changing scenery. So different from the limited 
view one obtains from the train as it whizzes by, 
so swiftly, limiting as it were the impressions ob- 
tained. What different impressions and what a fund 
of information, one may obtain from leisurely tour- 
ing and personal contact, when it is possible to meet 
and speak with the people of the different localities, 
and much out of the ordinary information is gathered. 

Does not Bacon, in his "Essays on Travel" say 
"Travel in the younger sort is a part of education" ? 

Through the state of Kansas the grain looked good 
and promised a rich harvest, and the farm houses, 
though not conspicuously pretentious presented 
a comfortable and prosperous appearance. Vnd 
this through a country, that, not many years ago 

[21] 



RAMBLES ON OVERLAND TRAILS 

was considered absolutely worthless. But what a 
change; and this through irrigation! Irrigating 
ditches were to be seen everywhere, in the western 
part of the state, from Kansas to the Coast and 
back to Salt Lake City, and all through Colorado. 
What wonders were made possible by this system! 
The transformation of barren waste, sand, and 
sagebrush, part of the desert lands were fast being 
converted into bearing lands; lands on which are 
raised grain, vegetables, fruit and trees. Most 
of the remaining barren lands throughout the great 
West are possible of cultivation, where water is 
obtainable, and there is sufficient water going to 
waste each year from the mountainsides to cultivate 
untold acres of land. 

Of course w^e realize that it is a big undertaking 
for big men, the kind that see into the future, the 
kind who do things; but when accomplished help 
make a better country to live in, and a perpetual 
monument to the engineers of the project. Rec- 
lamation of waste is the one big proposition of 
the day, and in economy and conservation are solved 
many vital questions, as to the distribution of mate- 
rial welfare, on the subject of which there is much 
agitation at the present time. 

Illustrations of conservation and supply may be 
[22] 




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RAMBLES ON OVERLAND TRAILS 

seen very clearly in a tour of the country, better 
than in any other way. 

In the forest service, game laws, mining, and in 
the distribution of water through land which has 
hitherto been dry, are practical illustrations. 

When we listen back fifty years ago to the stories 
of men who became rich overnight, and the wild 
extravagance of those miners, to whom money was 
like so much dirt, there is a vast comparison. Was 
not Brigham Young wise, when in giving advice 
to his followers, he said "Raise vegetables and feed 
the miners and you will all grow rich. If you mine 
for gold, a very few of you will make money, but 
the most of you will die in poverty." Sage and 
noble advice, the heeding of which was profitable to 
many. 

Some day the western country will be more thickly 
populated than it now is, and I think there is a 
wonderful future for Arizona and New Mexico. 

To return, one great objection to the irrigated 
sections is the condition of the roads, which, in 
many places are choppy and rough, and many 
farmers are careless and let the water overflow from 
the ditches, making the roads worse, despite warn- 
ings to the contrary. It has even been said that 
some farmers take advantage of rains to flood the 

[25] 



RAMBLES ON OVERLAND TRAILS 

road with water from the irrigating ditches by night, 
and by day pulhng the cars through with their 
teams for extra money. This I do not doubt, as 
it has been done before. This means delay and 
inconvenience and sometimes a disturbed disposi- 
tion, which is not pleasant to meet, and I would 
recommend that all ditches, at least the main water- 
ways, be made more permanent, as in California, 
where they are constructed of cement and bridged 
in a proper manner. Mud ditches break loose easily 
and frequently, thereby causing serious obstruction 
and damage. 

Much credit is due to the Auto Club of Southern 
California for the manner in which the roads are 
sign-posted all through from Denver, and Kansas 
to the Coast, on which a large sum of money has 
been expended, the return from which will not only 
be this year, but for all years to come, as many 
who make the trip this year will do so again, also 
many who have not. These signs are a lasting 
monument of practical usefulness. 

The Arkansas Valley, passed through from Dodge 
City west to La Junta and Trinidad, is a long stretch 
of fertile land, in which is grown alfalfa, melons, 
sugar beets as well as grains of all kinds, make it a 
valley rich in production, as evidenced by the towns, 

[26] 



RAMBLES ON OVERLAND TRAILS 

all of which show a thriving aspect. There are 
six sugar-beet factories in this valley which take 
care of and are an incentive to the growing of that 
crop. 

Other than the gradual ascent westwards to 
Trinidad, not much change is seen 'till arriving 
there, where we stayed all night and rested for the 
morrow. Yes, indeed, we had a hard climb ahead 
of us over Raton Pass, and we needed a good night's 
rest. 

Woodrow Wilson urges us in "The Man Who Found 
Himself" to live by enthusiasm; but somehow we 
were not over enthusiastic about this Pass, as from 
what we had previously heard, we pictured many 
dangerous precipitations, and ought not to attempt 
going over without an experienced driver. 

Our breakfast was not very heavy in antici- 
pation of those steep mountainsides, which we 
soon started to ascend. Winding up and over 
for about fourteen miles, the summit was reached 
at an altitude of 8,790 feet, and here the view of the 
surrounding country was one long to be remem- 
bered, and though narrow in places, the grade was 
not difficult, and our fears subsided. 

We were more or less fortunate in crossing at the 
time we did, for while on the summit, we encoun- 

[29 1 



RAMBLES ON OVERLAND TRAILS 

tered a light snow-storm, which was not unexpected, 
as the clouds had hung low all morning. It did 
not last long, but just long enough to give the 
ladies of the party a chance to make a snowball, 
which was later passed on to us, cooling the region 
of the spinal column. However, as we were about 
to make the descent, the view of the snow-capped 
peaks and the valley below, was greatly enhanced 
by the airy procession of clouds floating through 
the valley far below the road on which we were 
driving. And everjdhing seemed so radiantly 
sparkling and glittering as the sun, breaking through 
the clouds, shone forth to greet us, as it were, on 
our entry into Raton, New Mexico. This was the 
last drop of rain encountered until near home, 
seven weeks later. Safely over the dreaded pass, 
it is safe to say that apart from a few spots that 
needed repairing, and with the brakes in working 
order, and with due care, there is little to be afraid 
of, unless the road be muddy, in which case I do 
not think that any mountain road is safe, in fact 
they are more or less dangerous when in such a 
condition. 

That night was spent in Wagon Mound, a little 
town, mostly adobe buildings, savoring much of 
the spirit of romance. The name Wagon Mound 

[30] 




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;^ 
o 

W 
(/i 

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RAMBLES ON OVERLAND TRAILS 

is taken from a hill close by, which in shape 
resembles a covered army wagon. The 'dobe build- 
ings, the burros, all are through this great south- 
west, and, most of all, the dark-skinned people of 
Spanish and Mexican descent; some progressive, 
while others still echo, as did their forefathers, 
**maiiana." Here is encountered the land of the 
rugged frontiersman, the picturesque cowboy, the 
romantic Mexican, all men who have blazed 
the trail of civilization. 

Ranching is noticeable and very evident from 
the large flocks of sheep encountered everywhere, 
accompanied by their herders, mostly Mexicans. 

Between Las Vegas and Santa Fe, a number of 
quaint old Mexican villages are passed, some of 
them deserted; also the ruins of old Pecos Mission, 
a venerable old building, of which there is naught 
left but the four walls, said to date from the year 
1500. Connected with this mission is a legend to 
the effect that Montezuma, after his exile from the 
country by the Spaniards, returned upon the wings 
of an eagle. At Tienda there is also an old church, 
relic of former days, when the Spanish were in 
power. 

Coming into Santa Fe there is much to remind one 
of bygone days, in the narrow streets, which some- 

[33 1 



RAMBLES ON OVERLAND TRAILS 

how resemble old Quebec. An inspection of the 
old 'dobe buildings was indulged in, and it seemed 
as though each house and corner spoke in tender 
whisperings of the faded past, the past that is no 
more. From the Governor's Palace to the hum- 
blest dwelling, one sees and breathes romance; and 
in the Fonda, Old Exchange Hotel, stopping place 
of many early settlers, what tales of excitement and 
adventure were exchanged in that old building, now 
sadly in a state of dilapidation. 

In the Governor's Palace, which has been rejuven- 
ated and reconstructed to guard against the ravages 
of time, is to be found a wonderful collection of 
relics and specimens, exhibitions of the American 
School of Archaeology, brought from many sources 
as a result of their patient searches and investiga- 
tions. 

Here also was written the famous story of *'Ben 
Hur," by General Lew Wallace, who at the time 
was Governor of New Mexico; and one can readily 
see the source and the inspiration for the wonderful 
pen-pictures contained therein, after an acquaint- 
ance with the country in and around northern New 
Mexico. 

Of especial interest in the city is the old church 
of San Miguel, still in use for service on Sunday, 

[34 1 



RAMBLES ON OVERLAND TRAILS 

where we had the pleasure of meeting old Brother 
David, one of the type who courageously bore the 
trials and afflictions of early days in the furtherance 
of their beautiful missionary work. This vener- 
able old building, the cause of conjecture as to its 
origin, is dated by many as far back as 1541. 
Partially destroyed and rebuilt, it still stands, 
evidence of particular handiwork. In the interior 
is to be seen Spanish woodwork and carving, which 
evidently is very ancient. Many very old paint- 
ings are there, hanging on the walls, as they have 
done for many years. One of these we are told is 
of the thirteenth century. This with some Italian 
and Mexican work, and the statues are very inter- 
esting, and afford much subject for thought, as 
to their preservation and coloring. Also to be 
seen here is a very old bell, hammered and cast in 
Spain, so we are told, and we have no reason to 
doubt this statement. On the top of the bell is a 
crown, through w^hich is fastened a rawhide rope, 
by which the bell is suspended. Made of copper, 
silver, iron, and gold, and being four inches thick, 
it gives a very beautiful tone, and so sensitive is it, 
that touched on the outside with an ordinary pencil, 
a very lovely chime effect can be produced. A 
very pleasant hour was spent here with old Brother 

[371 



RAMBLES ON OVERLAND TRAILS 

David, and on leaving, the old cemetery was plainly 
to be seen. 

In the center of the city stands the Plaza, in 
which there is a soldiers' monument of native 
marble. 

From Santa Fe one may enjoy a few lovely trips 
to the various Indian pueblos, and not having seen 
either Taos, or the Puye ruins, we contented our- 
selves with a visit to the Santo Domingo pueblo, 
in which there are about one thousand inhabitants, 
living in much the same manner as formerly, still 
maintaining their peculiar customs, undisturbed 
by the invasion of their white neighbors. What 
is at once noticeable about the village is the total 
lack of agriculture, and save for some goats, sheep, 
and fowl on the place, there is nothing to indicate, 
where their means of subsistance is obtained. 
The whole thing resembles one large mud house set 
out on the sandy country; yet the interior of the 
buildings are very clean, despite the number of 
individuals under each roof. 

On the road between Santa Fe and Albuquerque, 
is the famous La Bajada hill, from which a steep 
descent is made on the south side following numer- 
ous hairpin turns, there is a drop of about nine 
hundred feet in a mile, but the road is very well con- 

[38] 



RAMBLES ON OVERLAND TRAILS 

structed and shows some features of engineering fore- 
thought. 

What a contrast between the two cities, Albu- 
querque presenting a very up-to-date appearance, 
and the road on to Magdalena winding over the 
mesa, on which water is quite scarce, except for 
a few springs, which are none too clean. Mag- 
dalena to Springerville the road winds through 
and over some very pretty country, most of which 
is through forest reserve, and over the continental 
divide at an altitude of 8,200 feet. For about 
fifty miles into Springerville the road is anything 
but desirable, being rough and stony, and hard on 
tires, two of ours having met their Waterloo there. 

One place where we intended visiting was the 
Petrified Forest, but owing to spring floods the bridges 
were washed out, making the journey there im- 
possible, and detour by way of Concho and Snow- 
flake brought us to Holbrook on the south side of 
the river. 

The next place of interest on the road was the 
Meteorite Canyon, a deep gash in the ground, 
said to have been caused by the fall of a meteor 
on this spot, which displaced the ground so that 
from a distance it appears as though a huge wall 
had been built around this immense hole. Samples 

[41] 



RAMBLES ON OVERLAND TRAILS 

of metallic formation have been excavated from 
here, presumably for commercial use, but extensive 
operations have failed, and the attempts abandoned, 
owing to the dirt sliding and caving in all around. 
Meteoric phenomena have been traced in Chinese 
records as far back as 644 B.C.; and from the seventh 
century B. C. to A. D. 333, sixteen falls of aerolites 
are recorded in the astronomical annals of the 
Chinese, according to the American Encyclopaedia, 
sometimes exploding and projecting upon the earth 
fragments, called meteoric iron, they are proved to 
be solid bodies in a state of intense heat, and are 
then known as aerolites or meteorolites. Such is 
what is found here through excavation. 

Near the canyon, on the plains, we saw a number 
of honest-to-goodness cow-boys who, partaking of 
their midday meal completed the picture. At the 
time a round-up was in progress and bunches of 
horses could be seen in all directions. 

From here the road into Flagstaff was but a short 
distance, over the Canyon Diablo, and after re- 
plenishing our stock of supplies, we hastened out 
in an effort to reach Walnut Canyon before dark, 
which we did and as a reward had a lovely view of 
the prehistoric cliff-dwellings by sunset. To tell 
of these dwellings is the work of a scientist, but 

[42] 



RAMBLES ON OVERLAND TRAILS 

certain it is that they were built in a secluded spot, 
which in itself was protection against marauding 
bands of invaders or enemies. Comfortable they 
looked and well built. 

At the Cliffs ranger station, we had the pleasure 
of meeting Mr. Pierce, the forest ranger stationed 
there, and from him we learned much of interest, 
as he, being a genial old-timer, was a fund of in- 
formation. Our camp there overnight was a very 
pleasant one which we enjoyed greatly, and many 
were the tales told over the camp-fire that night. 

Leaving the Cliffs next morning, we followed 
the road through beautiful pine and cedar forests 
all the way to the Grand Canyon, commanding 
an excellent view of those grand old San Francisco 
peaks, which, towering to a summit of over eleven 
thousand feet with their snow-capped peaks, seemed 
to merit the respect of all who gaze with rapture 
at their beauty. 

Arriving at Grand View late in the afternoon, 
an incomparable view of the Grand Canyon by 
sunset was our reward, and that sight will ever 
remain fresh in my memory. The wonderful, ever- 
changing effects of light and shadow, fairly and fanci- 
fully playing on your mind are long to be remembered. 
The rest of the evening I sat alone, gazing idly, 

[45 1 



RAMBLES ON OVERLAND TRAILS 

trying to fathom the impenetrable depths, but the 
grandeur, the subHmity, the bigness and the awful 
stillness beggar description, which has been tried 
time and again, but all confess their inability to do 
justice. "The Grand Canyon should be seen by 
all," said Mr. Roosevelt, and he was right. With- 
out seeing them, one cannot realize how, from vast 
depths below, those weird-shaped domes rise ma- 
jestically, shining forth in their various haunting 
hues. In a shimmering glow of beauty, the gigantic 
rock forms are seen dimly outlined, as twilight 
casts her shadow, and all is bathed deep in mystery. 

A very picturesque driveway is followed from 
Grand View on the east side to El Tovar on the west 
side, where another beautiful view of the canyon 
is had, different from that seen at Grand View. 
Down to the depths of the canyon, there are many 
narrow trails, on which the bottom of the canyon 
may be reached by pony or burro, which are kept 
there for the benefit of tourists. Bright Angel 
trail gives one an idea of the wonders to be seen 
below . 

Leaving behind us this magnificent spectacle, 
our road went south to Williams, thence to King- 
man and Needles. 

Before going further, I would like to say that if 
[46 1 



RAMBLES ON OVERLAND TRAILS 

ever I have to start investigating climates for the 
benefit of my health, the first choice will be the 
country adjacent to Flagstaff and Williams, in 
company with the grandeur of the mountains, for 
here in my estimation is one of the grandest chmates 
to be found anywhere. The atmosphere is the 
clearest and purest, and failing that I think the 
country near Banff, and Lake Louise, Alberta, 
in the heart of the Canadian Rockies, would be 
second choice. 

Much good road work will be found in Arizona, 
especially over the mountains to Gold Road. Gold 
Road is a mining camp of much activity, and is a 
novel sight to one unaccustomed to mining towns. 
Before reaching Topock a short stretch of sand is 
encountered which is soft and hard to travel if one 
does not keep right on the trail. At Topock we 
were fortunate in not having to wait any length of 
time before crossing the railroad bridge, which is 
a great saving of time to tourists in not having to 
ferry across. 

On Sunday afternoon we entered the state of 
California, and through my mind ran ever recurring 
thoughts; "this at last is California," land of my 
dreams, but not as I had pictured it, for instead of 
flowers and fruits, all I beheld was desert sand and 

f49l 



RAMBLES ON OVERLAND TRAILS 

mesquite, interspersed with cactus, much the same 
land as that through which we had come farther 
east; but on entering Needles we saw many flowers 
and palms, and how hot it was there! Everybody, 
it seemed to me, was using fans in an effort to be 
comfortable. Fanning seemed to be the popular 
pastime of all. 

For the benefit of some of my readers, who at 
any future time may contemplate a trip such as 
ours, I will give an extract of some "advice" given 
us along the road. 

"It is advisable to fill all auto bags or canteens 
before leaving Needles for the trip across the desert. 
In the cooler weather, should leave Needles about 
four o'clock in the morning, and in the months of 
June, July, and August, should leave about four 
o'clock in the afternoon, and drive all night, in 
which case take lunch. 

"Although the popular opinion among eastern 
tourists is that this stretch across the desert is one 
to be dreaded, as a matter of fact, it is one of the 
most pleasant portions of the trip. The sand is of a 
coarse nature, and not the least troublesome at 
any point and with the exception of crossing a 
few rough washes now and then, the whole trip is 
made in high gear. 










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RAMBLES ON OVERLAND TRAILS 

"The tourist will also observe the auto road largely 
follows the railroad, with a section house every 
eight miles, where in the event of an accident to 
the machine, water, food, and shelter can be had. 
During the months of June, July, and August, it 
is preferable to make this trip at night; there be- 
ing no vegetation the reflection of the moon makes 
it almost as light as day. No auto lights are 
necessary, while the atmosphere is much cooler. 
Enough small wood can be found to cook with." 

In commenting on this I would say not to de- 
pend on the section houses because the^^ are not 
in the business of catering to tourists and therefore 
their stock of provisions is never any greater than 
their actual need, as it is not the easiest to keep 
food in fresh condition on the desert. But travel- 
ing across the desert by night is enjoyable, and 
not to be feared in the least. 

Leaving Needles about seven o'clock in the even- 
ing we traveled on the Mohave desert until mid- 
night; when feeling tired, we decided to rest a little, 
which we did, arising about three o'clock in the 
morning to resume the journey across the desert, 
taking breakfast at a Chinaman's place in one of 
the towns which constitute little India, consisting 
of the towns of Cadiz, Bagdad, and Ludlow. Much 

[53 1 



RAMBLES ON OVERLAND TRAILS 

the same country was traversed 'till reaching San 
Bernardino, where at once a noticeable change was 
evident, for here were the fruits and flowers of 
which I had dreamed; all the result of irrigation. 

Continuing west over a good road we passed 
through numerous orange and lemon groves, and 
the little towns along the way seemed happy and 
prosperous. What one notices particularly are 
the beautiful and substantial school buildings every- 
where. 

Pasadena, a city very well known as the home of 
many millionaires, contains a number of large and 
handsome residences which are well kept and 
trim. The Busch sunken gardens are truly a work 
of art and admired by all. 



[54 



PART T\YO 



California 



PART TWO 

California 

OUR arrival in Los Angeles marked the com- 
pletion of the first two weeks of this wonder- 
ful trip, during which time our appetites 
were stimulated, and the nights spent in the open 
were nights of perfect rest. The mornings always 
found us fresh and eager for the day, which was 
true of the trip from start to finish. A few days 
spent in Los Angeles permitted of the various 
drives around the city, Universal City included, 
which was a novel sight, but flower-bedecked Holly- 
wood was appealing. 

Los Angeles is supposed to have been settled by 
Spaniards in 1780, and was known as Pueblo de 
Los Angeles, or town of the angels, a name given 
by virtue of the excellent climate, and beauty of 
the surrounding country in which is a fertile valley, 
containing many vineyards, orange and lemon 
groves, and flowers and trees of all kinds. 

El Camino Real, beautifully sign-posted all along 
with mission bells, which are marked, giving the 
distances between the principal towns, and di- 
rections to the Missions. The bells are placed 

[571 



RAMBLES ON OVERLAND TRAILS 

along the road, not merely as guide posts, but as 
testimonials to the work of the Franciscan Padres, 
pioneers in their work, and in the settlement of the 
coast lands. Of the bells, Mrs. A. S. C. Forbes has 
written an adaptation of Poe's "Bells." 
, The tragic history of the Missions is one of in- 
terest and a study separate in itself, romantic and 
historic. Its influence on early California settle- 
ment no one will deny. The old pictures and statues 
seen therein are credited with showing their original 
coloring, taken mostly from vegetable matter. 
The old Mission buildings with their quaint archi- 
tecture speak very tenderly of the past, the broken 
past which will never be revived. One may almost 
picture the padres, walking through the cloisters, 
chanting as they go along their litany and office. 

In the ruins of the Capistrano Mission are many 
evidences of the decorations that once were to be 
seen, but with the earthquake of 1812, and the 
ravages of time, much of the beauty of the Mission 
has been lost. In the foreground as you enter 
there stands a monument, erected to the memory 
of Father Serra, whose untiring efforts accomplished 
much. 

Father St. John O'Sullivan, the present incum- 
bent of the Mission, a man whose interest is in the 

[581 



RAMBLES ON OVERLAND TRAILS 

restoration of the crumbling remains of the glory 
that once was, has written a little booklet, called 
"Little Chapters," which is of help in explaining 
much that we know not of in relation to San Juan 
Capistrano; not a comprehensive history, he tells 
us, but a handbook of information for those who 
visit the place, and in the conclusion of which, he 
writes pathetically: "The Mission is in ruins; the 
Indians are no more; the pious padres are long since 
gone to their reward. The world which loves the 
flesh and the pride of life says and believes that the 
work was a failure, but in a sense that the world 
does not and cannot understand, the things they 
wrought will one day rise like a glorious sun over 
the ocean of eternity while the work of the worldling, 
which is now so proudly held up for the admiration 
of his fellow-man, will sink and disappear, like the 
sorry wreck of a ship, pounded to pieces on the 
treacherous rocks of time." 

A strong valediction, but who can tell, perhaps 
they are justified. 

Looking at the dreamy town of San Juan, and 
out onto the green and fertile valley, sloping west 
to the Pacific, towards what is known as La Boca de 
La Pla3^a, one may see the prosperity that once 
reigned, and the happiness that all knew, though 

[611 



RAMBLES ON OVERLAND TRAILS 

I doubt if the town ever showed any activity, more 
than is seen at the present time, which is little enough. 
Of the early days Father O' Sullivan says: 

The bull-fight took place in the plaza of the town, within an 
enclosure surrounded by high stakes which were driven into 
the ground and bound together by means of raw-hide strips. 

Leaving the old mission behind, we traveled on 
through San Onorfe, Oceanside, Encinitas, com- 
manding all the time a most compelling view of 
the tranquil waters of the Pacific. 

It was late in the evening when reaching Del 
Mar; a pleasant hour was spent to allow of a 
delightful repast, after which we were on our way to 
San Diego. The Stratford Inn at Del Mar is one 
of those places which in trying to escape the con- 
fines of the city is eagerly sought after, and here 
in retreat, gazing on the sunsets of the Pacific day 
after day, never grow tired of the peaceful outlook. 
Efficient service is the watchword, and such is a 
boon to the tired tourist the world over. 

Reaching San Diego by moonlight, not much was 
seen, but in the morning our chief point of interest 
was the Exposition, whither we went, and the 
quaint collection of buildings, Spanish in feature, 
at once held our attention together with the blend- 
ing in color efiect of the flowers and architecture. 

[62] 




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One feature of this Exposition that appealed 
to me, was the New Mexico building, and a residence 
such as this was, with the patio and courtyard, 
where one might retire in seclusion, and enjoy the 
quiet, is to be much admired and at the same time 
desired. This building is especially interesting, 
being a faithful reproduction of the great adobe 
Mission of the Indian pueblo of Acoma, built in 
1699, modified of course to some extent. 

A little journey into Tia Juana, Mexico, was the 
result of the inborn curiosity, of which all tourists 
have more or less to see this place; and I am of the 
opinion that were it not for the tourists from this 
country, there would not be much of this place 
left. The gambling places are operated by Ameri- 
canos, and entering a restaurant in an endeavor 
to find some Mexican chile, we were waited on by a 
Chinaman, who was the proprietor of the place. 
The reticence of the Mexican to discuss the political 
situation of their country is at once noticeable, and 
further inquiries are ineffectual, like trying to take 
the picture of an Indian, without paying him. 

The Fuerta at the time was occupied by soldiers 
of General Villa, but who occupies it to-day is conjec- 
ture. From the assortment of the curio stores we 
did find one zerapa, which was so unusually attrac- 

[65 1 



RAMBLES ON OVERLAND TRAILS 

tive as to merit consideration and which was pur- 
chased without much hesitation, and is now one 
of the prized souvenirs of the trip. 

Our tour of San Diego was incomplete without 
having seen the famous *'Ramona's Marriage 
Place," and here with "H. H.'s" novel in mind, 
we visited the old "Estudillo Mansion," which is 
indeed a relic of former days, enclosed in which is a 
beautiful courtyard, resplendent with flowers and 
trees, and nearby is an old wishing well, which, no 
doubt, was at one time in great demand. 

From the relics and paintings gathered together 
in the building, one may learn much of interest 
pertaining to the early history of California. A 
lovely view of Ramona's haunts, and Camulos 
Ranch is to be seen from the White Cross. 

In the immediate vicinity is the old town, where 
we are told was the original landing place of Father 
Juniperro Serra, whose efforts resulted in the 
establishing of the Missions along the coast. Also 
here was planted the first palm in the state, which 
with other pieces of history, make the place one of 
unique interest. 

One thing likable about Southern California is 
the even temperature and climate, the average 
mean being about 60 to 68. 

[66 1 




PORTION OF THE OWENS ACQUEDLCT 



RAMBLES ON OVERLAND TRAILS 

Taking a last beautiful view of Point Loma and 
the bay, we retraced our road north through La 
Jolla, skirting the water's edge, on a concrete road, 
which is followed while in San Diego county, a 
distance of sixty-eight miles north from the city. 

Passing through lemon and orange groves and 
some walnut groves, we arrived in Santa Ana, 
detouring from there to Long Beach, from where 
we went the next morning to San Pedro, home of 
the great harbor, there taking the boat on a trip 
to Avalon Ba}^ Catalina Island, which was a change 
from the car, and every moment one of interest. 
An excursion in the glass-bottomed boat permitted 
of an excellent view of the submarine gardens. 
Looking at many things of much importance, un- 
der the water, was, to us from the prairie, a novelty. 
The sea-cucumber, a mixture of animal and vege- 
table life, is seen clinging to the rocks in the same 
manner as a shellfish, is used by the Chinese as a 
table delicacy, the method of preparation of which 
I am ignorant. Also the kelp from which is ex- 
tracted potash. The various flowers of many tints, 
and the fish, chief of which are the golden perch 
and sardines, all are seen so very clearly and dis- 
tinctly in their natural life. One can also see and 
admire the baby seals in their native rookery, 

[69 1 



RAMBLES ON OVERLAND TRAILS 

which is maintained on the island by the govern- 
ment. 

The flying fish, seen flying in all directions, in 
their flight above the water, exhibit a great deal of 
gracefulness, especially at night when, with power- 
ful searchlights turned on them, they present a 
picture peculiarly maritime, as they splash and 
sport around. 

Of the flying-fish Thomas Moore has this to say: 

When I have seen thy snow-white wing, from the bhie wave at 

evening spring 
And show those scales of silvery white, so gayly to the eye of 

light, 
As if thy frame were formed to rise, and live amid the glorious 

skies; 
Oh, it has made me proudly feel, how like thy wings' impatient 

zeal 
Is the pure soul that rests not, pent within this gross world's 

element, 
But takes the wing that God has given, and rises into light and 

heaven. 

But when I see that wing so bright, grow languid with a moment's 

flight. 
Attempt the paths of air in vain, and sink into the waves again; 
Alas! the flattering pride is o'er; like thee awhile the soul may 

soar, 
But erring man must blush to think, like thee again the soul 

may sink. 

[701 



RAMBLES ON OVERLAND TRAILS 

How truly the poet describes the flying-fish, and 
how vivid the contrast! 

One of the memories of the day was the sunset 
on the Pacific, on our return to the mainland. That 
indeed was something to behold, and to touch the 
hearts of us. The gradual disappearance of the 
great ball of fire as it slowly sank into the west, 
and the ever-increasing coloring and reflection 
on the water, rippling and golden, held my atten- 
tion so that all else was oblivious for the time being. 
I have seen and watched many beautiful sunsets 
on the prairie, especially in the fall of the year, but 
never anything to equal that sunset on the Pacific, 
slowly, slowly fading and growing duskier till all 
shade of coloring was lost in the inky blackness 
of night. 

When the shadows of night fell we were on our 
way back to the city once more, where a few days 
more were indulged in admiring the beauties of 
Los Angeles, 'neath the magnolias and the palms, 
which in turn were soon displaced in the admira- 
tion of something else. 

A favorite place while in the city was Christo- 
pher's, where we found rest and comfort when tired 
and hungry, and characteristic features of the place 
were politeness and courtesy. 

[73] 



RAMBLES ON OVERLAND TRAILS 

So, bidding good-bye to flower-bedecked Holly- 
wood, we started once more; this time in a northerly 
direction to San Francisco. Following the beaten 
trail to San Fernando, where an inspection of the 
Sylmor Olive Plant was irresistible. This place 
is a 2,000 acre ranch, and is the largest olive grove 
in the world under one management. It contains 
100,000 trees, the tract being laid out in blocks with 
an avenue sixty feet wide around each block. It 
is readily seen where the name is derived from — 
Sylmor, meaning ''sea of trees." 

Later, in making a detour, an attempt to go by way 
of the San Francisquito canyon was unsuccessful, 
and on learning of trouble ahead, we turned back 
a long distance rather than take chances on a 
strange road. The next attempt was more suc- 
cessful, and going by way of Boquet Canyon, 
Bailey's was reached that night, where a comfortable 
stay was made. From here, next morning we con- 
tinued on through Tejon Pass, and at Rose Station 
just beyond is a large ranch owned by General 
Otis, where much of his time is spent. 

Arriving in Bakersfield we were at once impressed 
with the enormity of the Kern River oil-fields, a 
very good view of which is seen from and leaving 
the town. 

[74] 




BRIDAL VEIL FALLS, YOSEMITE 



RAMBLES ON OVERLAND TRAILS 

Visiting at the Italian-Swiss Colony at Kings- 
burgh, on the road to Fresno, invitation was 
extended to taste some of their excellent wines. 

Inquiries at Fresno convinced us that it was un- 
necessary to go to Merced, so taking the Wawona 
road through such old-time places as Bates, O'Neals 
Coarse Gold, Fresno Flats, and Fish Camp, where 
is a delightful spot for camping, in fact a camping 
paradise, and after a late breakfast, proceeded to the 
Mariposa Big Trees. Here, indeed, are trees well 
deserving of the title *'Big," known as the Sequoia 
Gigantea, chief of which is the "Grizzly Giant," a 
tree aged many centuries, measuring 204 feet in 
height, despite the fact that much of its top has 
been destroyed, and 30 feet in diameter. This 
in company with other large giants of the forest, 
all of which are named after some person well 
known, and for each state, make a visit to the 
Grove one of deep interest. Then there are such 
trees appropriately named, such as Telescope Tree, 
which is hollowed out in such a manner as to permit 
looking through to the top, the Faithful Couple, 
growing side by side, inch by inch, the same in 
height and appearance. 

A quotation from Scribner's Magazine of early 
date, says: 

[77] 



RAMBLES ON OVERLAND TRAILS 

The waving of a forest of Giant 
Sequoias is indescribably sublime. 

These trees, in company with the valley, have been 
the subject of much research and exploration, 
scientific and historical, by such men as Galen Clark, 
the beloved, John Muir, and others of note, poets 
and lovers of nature, all. 

Our first view of the valley was late in the after- 
noon, when on Inspiration Point, we beheld for the 
first time the Bridal Veil Falls, as the sun sinking 
on the opposite side cast a reflection on the falls, 
and w^ith the wild spray gentlj^ blown by the wind, 
resembled a piece of colored chiffon floating in 
the breeze, so iridescent was the effect. Looking 
down into the valley far below, one msiy readily 
see where the names, Artists' View and Inspiration 
Point are justified, for there is beauty and coloring 
to inspire any artist. 

At this point we would like to have dallied longer, 
but the steep descent before us was not one to be 
chanced after dark. 

The valley proper was a surprise to us; there is 
so much more there than one expects to see. The 
tranquillity of the place is impressive, and a con- 
viviality and freedom reigns, into the spirit of 
which one at once enters. Tramping around or 

[78 1 







GIAXT CACTIS AT THE EXPOSITION 



RAMBLES ON OVERLAND TRAILS 

following the trails on reliable burros many are 
busy seeing the various points of interest, and 
when night comes, after listening to some of the 
many lectures given by the photographers, one is 
ready to lay down and sleep the night through, 
waking in the morning feeling refreshed and ready 
for the day. In the valley there is a great deal to 
attract one's attention, chief of which is Mirror Lake, 
for mirrored in the placid waters of the lake the re- 
flection of everything around is perfect, and seen in 
the early morning at sunrise, is one of the memories 
of the trip. And then, such places as Happy Isles, 
El Capitan, and others are prominent features of 
interest, the various spires and rock projections 
lending a grotesque enchantment to the place. Then 
there are trails to ride, mountains to climb, and 
the doings of the Sierra Club gives one an idea of 
how much is possible without going to Europe. 

A book which I enjoy reading is "Yosemite and 
its High Sierras," written by John H. Williams, 
in which are many lovely illustrations. 

On one large stone there I counted seventeen 
holes, or grist-mills, made and used by the Indians 
in grinding corn. Whether they were all in use 
at one time or not I cannot say, but if they were, 
it must have been a busy place at the time. 

[811 



RAMBLES ON OVERLAND TRAILS 

Getting out of Yosemite is much similar to going 
in, that is, there are a like amount of grades to over- 
come before reaching the flats, which of course one 
does not mind when the roads are in good shape. 

Going by way of Big Oak Flat road we passed 
through the Tuolumne Grove, where there was a 
large tree, through the center of which we drove the 
car. Thence to Chinese Camp and Knights Ferry, 
French Camp, and Tracy, relics of olden days. 
Somewhere between Groveland and Jacksonville 
there is a very steep decline, a remarkable piece 
of engineering, on which with the ignition shut off, 
we coasted for ten miles. 

While attempting to cross Livermore Pass by 
night, we were unfortunate in encountering a very 
severe sandstorm, such as to make further traveling 
impossible, so turning back, we stayed at Tracy 
overnight, from where we proceeded on to San 
Francisco next day. Before reaching Oakland, it 
was our pleasure to discover a lovely little place 
called Canyon Inn, near Dublin Canyon, where 
hungry autoists are made welcome, the service 
being individual and all that one would wish for. 

Arrived in the city, a number of days were de- 
voted to the first point of interest, the Exposition, 
which to attempt to write of would take too much 

[82 1 



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space, and besides the advertisers have taken care 
of that, I will merely mention that we enjoyed 
everything there to the fullest extent. 

One thought which comes home to visitors in 
the city, is the courage and optimism with which 
the city w^as rebuilt in the face of the awful calamity 
of 1906. In a tour of San Francisco, it is no diffi- 
cult task to picture the desolation and sorrow 
through which the victims went, and the destruc- 
tion wrought at the time. 

Chinatown is more or less disappointing as com- 
pared with that which existed before the fire, but 
a night of fun and interest was spent in exploring 
this section of the city. 

The Exposition grounds seen by night, when the 
buildings and grounds lighted in all their glory, 
are an alluring sight, and can be seen for many 
miles. 

In a comparison of the two Expositions, it is 
conceded that the one of San Diego is in character 
more of a local affair, featuring as it does the prod- 
ucts of California, but which nevertheless is edu- 
cational and brings to mind the possibilities of 
what can and is being accomplished in that 
country. 

A visit to the Golden Gate Park, The Presidio, 
[85] 



RAMBLES ON OVERLAND TRAILS 

Seal Rocks, and some downtown buildings com- 
pleted the stay in San Francisco, and eager to be on 
the highway once more, we made our departure, 
starting homeward. 



PART THREE 

EAST ON THE LINCOLN HIGHWAY 



California 
Nevada 
Utah 
Wyoming 



PART THREE 

East on the Lincoln Highway — California, Nevada, 
Utah and Wyoming 

EMERGING from Livermore Pass, the won- 
derful San Joaquin valley was entered once 
again, and the glorious fields of grain were 
pleasing to behold. 

Near Sacramento a new system of mining is in 
operation, of which this is said: "It is within the last 
three years that Sacramento has come to the fore 
as a gold producer. This is due to a new method 
of mining-dredging, which has made it profitable 
to work deposits previously having practically no 
commercial value. In 1900 the county's gold 
output was $176,007, which in 1908 passed the 
million mark." And again we read: "With the 
gold removed from the land along the rivers, the 
soil is turned into agricultural land," all of which 
is part of a reclamation scheme. 

Placer ville, on the way to Lake Tahoe, formerly 
known as Hangtown, was the next stop, and ex- 
ploited as being the center of much mining activity, 
when all the country was in the throes of excite- 
ment over the reported discoveries of gold, and 

[89] 



RAMBLES ON OVERLAND TRAILS 

the magnet which attracted much immigration to 
this section of the United States many years ago, 
when miners either grew rich, or scattered their 
bones along the wayside, in their wild fever to 
find the precious stuff. Places and scenes made 
familiar to us by Bret Harte may be conjectured; 
in fancy we picture the novelist as he wandered 
about the mining camps for three years, analyzing 
the life and conditions of the miners. Much of the 
old-time appearance still exists, despite the progress 
made. 

Arriving at Al Tahoe late at night we did not see 
much of the lake till next morning, when we were 
up bright and early, to see the beauty of the lake 
by sunrise. A boat ride around the lake and Em- 
erald Bay, and the drive along the west side to 
Tahoe Tavern gave us an unexcelled view of this 
magnificent body of water, which is about twenty- 
five miles long, and twelve or thirteen miles wide, 
and created in us a desire to return at some future 
time. 

Lake Tahoe in point of scenery and grandeur 
is one of the prettiest of its size in the country. In 
the clearness, the purity of the water, there is a 
charm at once appealing to the finer sense. The 
location is ideal, and the many happy idle hours 

[90 1 




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RAMBLES ON OVERLAND TRAILS 

spent 'neath the pines, were whole-souled hours of 
rest and content, for, to quote Moore; 

How calm, how beautiful comes on 
The stilly hour, when storms are gone. 

Round about are many smaller lakes, forming 
as it were a circle in the center of which is the larger 
lake, each individually attractive, and the mountain 
streams, sources of which are the many snow-capped 
mountains, visible in all directions, looming large 
against the sky-line, from which the snow trickles, 
trickles, never failing in its abundant supply, till 
gradually growing larger it rushes wildly to river 
and lake. 

And out again I curve and flow 

To join the brimming river. 
For men may come and men may go. 
But I go on for ever. — Tennyson. 

Situated as it is at an altitude of 6,200 feet one 
will always find it cool and refreshing. The natural 
element of the lake, the fact that the place is not 
infested with curio stores will appeal to many 
tourists, who have seen these curio stores and pur- 
veyors of trinkets in almost every quarter of the 
globe. 

It was with reluctance that we bade good-bye 
to Lake Tahoe, to continue the journey over Dog 

[93 1 



RAMBLES ON OVERLAND TRAILS 

Valley road to Reno, going through much timber, 
a scarcity of which was noticeable from Reno going 
east, also a change in soil was evident, for here we 
again encountered desert lands, much of which is 
under cultivation, and the roads being graded are 
very bad and choppy, being sadly in need of atten- 
tion between Hazen and Fallon. No time can be 
made as there is erious danger of dismembering 
the car, if care is not used in driving. Apart from 
this the rest of the Lincoln Highway over which we 
traversed is good traveling when dry. Why roads 
are allowed to get into such disrepair I fail to see, 
and why the business men cannot see that it is to 
their advantage to keep them up, and in good 
shape for travel. Surely the trade of the tourist 
is worth appreciating, and such in any section of 
the country is many times the small amount re- 
quired in the upkeep of the roads, and where one 
experiences trouble in getting over bad roads, he 
will not fail in acquainting fellow travelers with the 
condition of the road ahead, and when possible 
an optional route is taken. And while on this 
subject it is well to mention the lack of service and 
system characteristic of many garages encountered 
along the highways of all states. The sale of 
gasoline and oil would seem to be the hardest work 

[94 1 




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which they are wiUing to do. There is indeed much 
room for systematization along this hne of work, 
for man}^ of the men are incompetent and careless. 
Then on the other hand, we have pleasant mem- 
ories of other garages, where courtesy and skilled 
workmanship were much in evidence. These are 
the people to whom tourists will return in future, 
and be sure of satisfaction. 

One experience of much moment was ours, east 
of Fallon between Salt Wells and Sand Springs, on 
what is known as the eight-mile flat, forming part 
of the Carson sink, where ^ve hours of honest 
toil were spent, extricating the car from the mud. 
This flat is a peculiar piece of ground, being covered 
at all times with about an inch of crusted salt, 
resembling a blanket of snow, being white, but un- 
derneath is very treacherous, and if one should 
happen to leave the beaten track, trouble is in store, 
for even in walking one's shoes will sink three or 
four inches at each step. Only in keeping on the 
beaten track can one feel secure in crossing, and 
had we known this previously, much trouble might 
have been avoided, but the time spent there was not 
lost by any means, for we learned much of the 
peculiarities of the soil beneath, which is supposed 
to be influenced by an underground tide of some 

[97] 



RAMBLES ON OVERLAND TRAILS 

description ; certain it is that there is a great deal of 
sub-surface moisture. 

Our maiden efforts at extricating the car from 
difficulty were futile, and troubles might have been 
worse had we not had instructions as to the best 
means of getting out, by one who confessed to having 
been in the same predicament at least a dozen times, 
and getting out to him was a science, accomplished 
by jacking the wheels and building underneath 
them a foundation of rock, the only kind near being 
lava-rock, until, resting firmly on a level basis 
with those on the opposite side, the car started 
without further trouble, and once started, we did 
not stop till landing safely on the other side. How- 
ever, we noticed one car which had started to take 
a short cut across, and knowing the occupants' 
fate, if they continued, went back and helped 
them out. 

Eastgate was the objective point for that night, 
where after a very hearty meal, made possible by 
the exercise of the day, we turned in and enjoyed 
an unusually good night's sleep. At Eastgate was 
a wonderful example of the results of irrigation, 
for situated in the desert as it is, it boasts of a 
very fine truck garden, where are raised vegetables 
of all kinds, and surrounded by large shade trees, 

[981 



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make it a veritable oasis in the desert, by which 
name it is known. 

Going upgrade, we arrived in Austin at noon. 
Continuing to Eureka, winding over hills and flats, 
where are to be seen many diggings, or prospectors' 
holes, large and small, all in the heart of a good min- 
ing country. What fortunes and failures have 
resulted in the search for gold and what romance, 
one may conjure in regard to these places! Of 
the town of Eureka this is especially true for there 
the large iron doors and windows, the underground 
passages, and the buildings, now dilapidated, make 
clear the life and prosperity once enjoyed by this town. 

The old mine at Eureka, now closed and deserted, 
has paid in dividends something like seventy mil- 
lions. All is now history and nothing remains 
but scrap. Old Chinatown is peculiarly interesting, 
and a relic of former days, with its sidewalk con- 
structed so that it rests on the top of old barrels. 

On to Ely the road continues winding over 
mountain ranges, none of which are diflficult but 
giving splendid views of the surrounding country. 

Throughout this part of Nevada, one finds many 
long stretches of uninhabited land which is the bug- 
bear of many tourists, though at no time is it im- 
possible to obtain water for the engine, but all 

[101] 



RAMBLES ON OVERLAND TRAILS 

water is not fit for drinking, so it is well to be sup- 
plied with drinking water at all times. 

Gasoline is also higher all along the way here, 
which is not to be wondered at when one sees the 
freighting teams of ten to sixteen horses and mules 
used, all of which have to feed en route, and the 
branch train service is not of the best. 

At Ely, a live town, is located one of the largest 
copper mines in existence at the present day. From 
information given us by the superintendent, we 
learned that fourteen pounds of copper to the ton 
was the average production of this large pit, and 
in the process of refining, about $30,000 worth 
of the stuff was an absolute loss, per annum. 

The Ely Auto Club are accomplishing much good 
road work and are to be congratulated on their 
achievement. 

About forty miles east of Ely, the Shelbourne 
Pass was crossed, on the summit of which we camped 
for the night. 

Going through Overland Canyon, on the bed of a 
creek, we first glimpsed the Great American Desert 
ahead, which in appearance resembled a large white 
lake, nestling close to the mountains of azure, the 
contrast between which make a picture, never to 
be forgotten. 

[ 102 1 




BALANCED KUCK, GAKDEX OF THE GODS 



RAMBLES ON OVERLAND TRAILS 

How very deceptive in appearance is the desert, 
the great resemblance to water luring many a weary 
traveler in earlier days, the days of search for water 
in vain, lured by the mirage, only to die with parched 
lips; such has been the fate of many, the world over. 

Callao and Kearney's Ranch were soon passed, 
the latter being a well-known stopping place for 
travelers across the desert, and Fish Springs was 
reached over a stretch of very poor road. 

At Fish Springs we made the acquaintance of 
Mr. Thomas, a man of benignity, now the pro- 
prietor of the place, who was at one time a stage 
driver. In the course of our conversation, he in- 
formed us that the place was at one time a Wells 
Fargo station, and had been honored by the pres- 
ence of such men as Horace Greeley and Mark 
Twain in their overland journeys. 

The house, store and sleeping quarters nestle 
closely together, and are a welcome sight to those 
who have once been there, for Mr. Thomas, in 
company with his bachelor cook, will see that all 
are satisfied before leaving, and their efforts are 
appreciated by all. There is always nice fresh water 
in the cooler, hanging under the tree. This is 
where there are stretches of from forty to sixty 
miles without water of any kind. 

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RAMBLES ON OVERLAND TRAILS 

Being a nice moonlight evening, we continued 
on our way, for, from Fish Springs east, after skirt- 
ing around the hills for some miles, the actual 
crossing on the desert takes place, where good time 
can be made for a number of miles, the ground being 
level and smooth, but we noticed that some car 
had crossed when it was muddy and soft, making a 
deep rut which had dried, in which condition the trail 
remains for the season. The evening drive was very 
beautiful, revealing to us the magical beauties of a 
desert sunset, where the shades and shadows formed 
and faded until all was as one dusky hue, in the 
formation of w^hich distance played an important 
part. Camp was pitched that night on the desert 
sands, where it was difficult to find a spot solid enough 
to drive the stakes, but finally managed to do so. 

Orr's Ranch and Brown's Ranch were quickly 
passed next morning and a short stay at losepa 
was disappointing. This place is a Hawaiian village, 
and being interested in these people, expected to 
meet some of the natives there, but evidently they 
were all at work as none were in sight except a few 
children ; so continuing we arrived in Salt Lake City, 
showing much the effects of having crossed the 
desert. Were it not for the car, I doubt if our friends 
would have recognized us. 

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RAMBLES ON OVERLAND TRAILS 

Having heard and read much of Mormonism, 
Salt Lake proved interesting, unusually so, even 
though time was limited, our information was stim- 
ulated, and, I may say more accurate on leaving 
than on our arrival. 

The Temple, the Tabernacle, and grounds are 
worthy of attention, even though there are differ- 
ences of opinion as to what Mormonism really stands 
for, in the pursuance of their creed. Being neither 
a disciple nor an exponent, I shall not enter into a 
discussion as to the influence exerted by their 
teaching; but this is sure, great credit is due the 
Mormons, who early emigrated to this section, 
and the work performed by them in cultivating 
and settling the district, then so barren and deso- 
late. In the cultivation and irrigation of those 
lands, they have built a monument, outlasting 
all else. Many hardships were endured by them 
in their efforts, but theirs was the kind that en- 
dures, and so they live and prosper, at peace with 
their neighbors of different sects. 

The width of the streets, which present a very 
comfortable appearance, together with the beauti- 
ful shade trees, typical of all Mormon settlements, 
make a city very much admired and attractive. 

No visit to this part of the country is complete 
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RAMBLES ON OVERLAND TRAILS 

without an outing in the lake, to which we were no 
exception, so with our bathing suits and the in- 
evitable kodak, thither we went, but the kodak was 
not permitted, the point of which we saw when the 
professional asked us if we would not have our 
pictures taken. 

The lake is 22 per cent salt, so that a human 
body will float without effort, and for those who 
enjoy floating, this is the place. I may mention 
that my first act on entering the water was to 
duck my head, and as a result, it was a very long 
time ere I could comfortably open my eyes. 

The location of the lake has some bearing on the 
original settlement of the Mormons there. History 
says that Brigham Young, beholding the great 
valley through Emigration Canyon, announced 
that here would be a new Zion, in the memorable 
words, "This is the place." 

Leaving Salt Lake City we proceeded to Evanston 
by way of Ogden, but not being fortunate in getting 
an early start, were caught in a heavy rain storm 
about ten o'clock that night, and with difficulty 
reached Castle Rock, where, expecting to find a 
town or settlement of some description, were dis- 
appointed, and through the courtesy of the night 
despatcher, we spent the night in a box-car, fitted 

[110 1 



RAMBLES ON OVERLAND TRAILS 

up by him for living quarters, which was a welcome 
relief from the prospect of spending the night in 
the open, it being too wet to put up the tent. 

By morning the rain had subsided, and not much 
trace of it was left, as the ground dries very quickly, 
proceeded to Evanston, where, being the Monday 
after the Fourth of July, celebrations were being 
held, and we now realized that the mining country 
had been left behind, being displaced by ranching, 
as evidenced by the nature of the celebration, 
which consisted chiefly of cow-boy performances. 
From a distance of many miles they were assembled 
here to perform on exhibition that which was part 
of everyday life not so very long ago, and in their 
chaps and silk shirts, made a very gay and festive 
showing. Evidently they were enjoying themselves, 
and providing much entertainment for those as- 
sembled, to witness the performance. 

Evanston to Rock Springs was through much deso- 
late country, and Rock Springs was reached over a good 
road from Green River in time to witness a display of 
fireworks, closing event of the day. Around Rock 
Springs is evidently much of the same class of 
country, which does not even look like good ranching, 
but from Rawlins east, a change is perceptible, which 
is gradual, until very good ranching is soon seen. 

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RAMBLES ON OVERLAND TRAILS 

Twenty miles from Rawlins is crossed the ** Devil's 
Backbone," which is truly a sierra — a Spanish word 
the meaning of which is a saw — projecting from and 
rising above the ground like the fin of a fish, and 
farther, the Divide is crossed, all of which are easy 
grades. 

On through Laramie to Cheyenne are good roads, 
and midway is crossed the Continental Divide at 
an altitude of 8,000 feet, on the top of which stands 
a large monument, and where is also to be seen 
large granite formation in the natural state. Leav- 
ing the summit, Cheyenne is within easy reach. 

Cheyenne, the capital of Wyoming, built on a 
broad open plain at an altitude of about 6,000 
feet, old-time king of cow-towns, is heeding the 
voice of progress and the day of the six-shooter is 
over. The cowboys are gradually adopting other 
methods of earning a living and ex-cowpunchers 
are everywhere. 



[114] 



PART FOUR 

HOMEWARD BOUND 



Colorado 

Kansas 

Oklahoma 



PART FOUR 

Homeward Bound — Colorado^ Kansas^ and Oklahoma 

CHANGING again the direction of travel and 
going south with Colorado Springs as our ob- 
jective point, we stopped at Greeley for lunch, 
finding much of interest in this unique settlement, 
the country adjacent to which is watered by the 
South Platte and its various tributaries. Greeley, 
a very progressive city, was founded about the year 
1870, on ideals of the late Horace Greeley, and un- 
like other communities founded on idealistic the- 
ories, still survives. Here are located beet sugar 
factories, which represent an investment of about 
three million dollars, which take care of the im- 
mense beet production of the surrounding country. 

Continuing, we soon reached the "city of the 
plains," scene of great mining activity, both formerly 
and now. 

Denver is a very interesting city, historically 
and commercially, and it will be a pleasure to 
visit this city at some future time, when our minds 
will not have been surfeited with so much previous 
scenery, and objects of interest; so, not stopping 
long, we reached Palmer Lake that night. 

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RAMBLES ON OVERLAND TRAILS 

It was late when arriving at Pine Crest Inn; little 
could be seen, but something seemed to whisper of 
the mountains, sublime and grand, and with a 
feeling of hearts content, we slept the night through, 
awaking in the morning to behold the retreat, 
the simple quietness that was there; and, peering 
through the trees on the hillside, we could see the 
many cottages and bungalows, all under the same 
management, none of which are unoccupied during 
the season. A wholesome breakfast, such as one 
might expect on the farm, with everything fresh, 
followed by a cool plunge in the natatorium, left 
in us pleasant memories of our stay there. 

Twenty miles of magnificent mountain scenery 
is to be had on the drive from Palmer Lake to 
Colorado Springs which, in conjunction with Colo- 
rado City and Manitou, is one of the popular re- 
sorts of the country. The lovely drives around, 
the trip to Pike's Peak, the Garden of the Gods, 
Cripple Creek, and others, make this the center of 
some of the most complete scenic trips possible. 

Colorado Springs being very cosmopolitan, one 
may find friends there from almost anywhere, all 
seeking the variety of attractions. 

The majestic altars of nature, visible from there, 
rising high to the heavens, crowned with snow as if 

[118] 



RAMBLES ON OVERLAND TRAILS 

to complete the beauties of nature, are nowhere 
to be compared, and as twihght spreads her mantle 
of haze, which reflects softly by moonlight, how 
grand and sublime seem the domes, the great domes 
of silence. 

What a medley of strange rock formations, can- 
yons and mineral springs in this picturesque region 
of wonder and charm; and, on climbing some of the 
high points, there is stretched before them, rolling 
far away to the east, the mighty plains, fertile and 
grand, presenting a picture of wonderful color 
formation, from the red clay to the green fields of 
alfalfa, and the golden grain waving in its glory 
as one mighty sea. 

Pueblo, historic old spot, has been the camping 
grounds of many notable expeditions into the western 
country, and now an important manufacturing 
center, from where we found the road east very 
rough and uncomfortable, was passed through to 
La Junta which we reached after going through 
Rocky Ford, the place famed for its cantaloupes, 
and watermelons, due to which there is a day set 
aside as watermelon day. 

La Junta to Syracuse and Dodge City was a 
journey of two days, the roads being fair and yet 
better than many over which we had traveled. 

[m] 



RAMBLES ON OVERLAND TRAILS 

This section of the country is very rich in early 
history. 

At Las Animas, Colonel Pike first glimpsed the 
famous peak that now bears his name. Conflicts 
have taken place, in which have figured Americans, 
Spaniards, French, Indians of many tribes, and citi- 
zens of the Republic of Texas, which make it an 
almost sacred ground, dear to the hearts of many. 
It is not so very many years ago since traveling 
over the trails was not very safe and attended with 
danger, and not a day passed without reported 
hostilities of some kind, whether by outlaws or 
hostile Indians, it was all the same. 

Fort Lyon, near Las Animas, used as a hospital 
for consumptive soldiers, where Kit Carson was 
brought during his last illness, in May, 1868, 
dying from the rupture of an artery in the neck, 
is named in honor of General Lyon, who fell in 
the battle of Wilson's Creek, Missouri. 

Dodge City, at one time a popular trading post 
in buffalo hides and meat and one of the largest 
shipping points for Texas cattle, near where is 
Old Fort Dodge, established by General Dodge in 
1864, was for ten years a government fort, when it 
became a soldiers' home, where 275 veterans are 
cared for by the state. 

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RAMBLES ON OVERLAND TRAILS 

East of Dodge City are Great Bend, Earned, 
Pawnee Rock, and Kinsley, all of which we passed 
going out from Hutchinson, and the ruins of old 
Fort Zarah, of each of which there are tales of 
adventure and frontier life to tell, and have been 
visited by such men as Buffalo Bill, Kit Carson, 
Generals R. E. Lee and Hancock. 

From Dodge City, but a short run was necessary 
to take us across the line into Oklahoma, and after 
nine weeks' absence, we w^ere almost at home once 
more, with everybody feeling well and happy, 
renewed in vigor both mentally and physically, 
and the car none the worse for wear; among the 
wheat-fields, the corn-fields, and the oil-fields, which 
with the many derricks, dotted here and there, evi- 
dence of prosperity, were good to see, and presented 
once more a picture of the local resources, a change 
from the wheat-fields of the plains of Kansas. 

To all who can do so, let me presume to recom- 
mend a trip in the open, the longer the better, as 
an antidote to living indoors the year round, and 
an interest taken in passing events will be justified 
in the knowledge gained, of which no previous idea 
had been maintained. 

At some future time I look forward with pleasure 
to a tour of California which will permit of more 

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RAMBLES ON OVERLAND TRAILS 

thorough exploration of the beauties of that state. 
For instance, the trip on El Camono Real, from 
Mission to Mission, slowly, leisurely, becoming 
acquainted with the beautiful legends and history 
connected therewith, than with what is actually 
to be seen at the present day, for in their history 
lay the charm and romance which appeals to one so. 

There is much to be seen in this great country 
of ours, and those who think they know the United 
States, have something more to learn, which is 
reasoned by the fact, that the more one learns, the 
less he knows; a paradoxical theory maintained 
by many eminent scholars, who are untiring in 
their efforts to learn. 

In "Unguarded Gates," by Thomas Bailey 
Aldrich, one will find, expressed in sentiment, the 
wide range of varieties found in this great land of 
America. 

During the trip, the various sections, irrigating, 
mining, ranching, dry-farming, oil-fields, fruit, and 
timber lands, all so different one from the other, 
and the various types of cacti, and wild flowers, 
so different from what one might expect, from pre- 
conceived ideas, all hold your attention and in- 
terest. One of the prettiest flowers seen anywhere, 
is the bloom of the cactus, varying in shade from 

[ 124] 



RAMBLES ON OVERLAND TRAILS 

yellow to orange, contrasting as they do with the 
dreary waste of sand and mesquite, of which so 
much is seen. 

Occasionally in the quiet of the evenings, a 
reminiscence of the trip is indulged in, and a source 
of pleasure derived therefrom, and a wistfulness 
for other places comes in my mind, bringing to 
mind the lines of Goldsmith: 

But where to find that happiest spot below. 
Who can direct, when all pretend to know. 

So ends an account of our trip, a pleasant outing 
of about six thousand miles, which being written 
from memory, I hope will find a welcome among 
readers and if, in the reading, one enjoys what I have 
tried to write, then indeed I am satisfied and well re- 
paid, for that was my idea in writing of this trip, 
to bring home to the minds of my readers, some of 
the grandeur and beauty, typical of the great out-of- 
doors, of which I have always been an ardent admirer. 

One word more in conclusion, I have been asked 
many questions as to the effect of the sun and winds. 
In view of the fact that we suffered no inconvenience 
from sunburn, I may say that the delightful calm- 
ness of the evening more than compensates for the 
hot, dirty winds of the day. 

[125 1 



